Runway razzmatazz

Spring/summer 2017 fashion trends are offbeat and speak of comfort along with individualism say Aanchal and Sanjana Bubber of Bubber, an Indian couture fashion label

We’ve seen everything on catwalks this season from the bold and vibrant to the classic and restrained, but there was one thing that all couturiers seemed to show a certain appreciation for and that was the straight and narrow looks that appeared in plenty in Paris, Milan, London and NYC.
Sheer is one of the biggest new trends. Coach featured several sheer dresses and skirts matched with pieces worn over or under. Oscar de la Renta experimented with the trend as well while Delpozo mixed florals with sheer to create a unique feminine look. Similar looks were seen on the ramp by Anna Sui, Rodarte, Jason Wu (whose model posed underwear less with only a sheer dress), Dior, Nina Ricci and Giambattista Valli.

Designers using underwear as outerwear is nothing new to the fashion week stage, but in a few shows it was a particularly big deal. Giambattista Valli and Alexander McQueen showed that old habits don’t always have to die hard.
With the latest popular #FreeTheNipple Campaign, exposure of women’s breasts is suddenly a huge rage! Lanvin sent down a series of sheer dresses most notably a vibrant purple one that left quite literally nothing to the imagination, save for a pair of black boy shorts worn beneath.
Sheer fabric is always rather refreshing on the runway, even in large quantities its light, breezy nature is a palate cleanser. While McQueen played on sexy and bustier combinations, Balmain presented some rather interesting designs that we might decide to pair with a black bra instead of freeing the nipple—at least for now.

All that’s required is for you to show as much skin as possible while still covering up. This is a trend that is not showing any signs of disappearing, at least not anytime soon.
Minimal over-exposed looks include the new upcoming trend of bralettes, a unique variation to the expected crop top. Alexander Wang paired bralettes with high fashion robes giving a dressed down, comfortable yet luxurious look. Kenzo & Carven, on the other hand, layered bras and bralettes under and over clothing. Bras with a leather bomber thrown over is a trend made popular by Kendall Jenner styled over pants or a skirt.
Black robes aren’t considered undergarments anymore, but a reminder that the flaunt of skin is high fashion. Alberta Ferretti and Roberto Cavalli styled bralettes with printed khakis. Vivetta was seen combining the robes with Chinese style printed dresses while Jonathan Simkhai introduced robes with single piece swimsuits over sheer clothing underneath. Robes in general are seen on everything from the more home lounging effects to the single piece swimsuits to being a cover over the sheer clothing underneath.

Bras and bralettes with jackets or trenches is an amazing new ramp statement. Here, women have the opportunity to flaunt bras with print, lace and vibrant details. We see prints and frills, bikini style trends, some on a dominatrix basis some simply pretty. Bras with a leather bomber thrown over is a trend made popular by Kendall Jenner styled over pants or a skirt.
Sleepwear as Outerwear is the one trend we are the happiest with! Milan really emphasised this fashion trend, but it was equally seen in London and New York before that and Paris right after. There were pyjama-like baggy pieces seen by Adam Selman. Prada pajamas were trimmed in feathers while it is all prints at Dolce & Gabbana and colour patchwork by
Ports 1961.

Athleisure is going strong this season with leggings, mermaid shorts, track suits and sporty fashion all back in fashion with a bang! Seen by Dior mimicking fencing garb, Chanel with baseball caps and Elie Saab with tweed, caps, bomber jacket in silk. DKNY showed gorgeous designs while Max Mara showed looks which can double as office wardrobe. These silhouettes were seen mixed with couture on the Paris runways, with Sacai, Off-White, Marginal and Fenty x Puma by Rihanna playing athleisure mixes with gowns and corsets.
The focus on romantic, soft feminine looks is also extremely popular—pretty flowing skirts, floral prints, romantic cuts, soft fabrics, frills, rushing and ribbons. You can opt for Simone Rocha’s puffed sleeves, or the full coverage translucency of PPQ, the very 1800s looks from Mother of Pearl, or the ribbons and bell sleeves of Erdem when picking up your romantic dress collection. Christian Dior and Alexander McQueen introduced a plethora of soft silhouettes and feminine detailing.

Feminine ruffles were plenty on the runway adding drama, a flirty vibe and the perfect burst of feminity required for upcoming spring-summer. Amongst the designers who showcased ruffles, there was Rodarte with some stunning evening looks. Emanuel Ungaro used a very interesting play of ruffles in a diagonal effect to give his dress a little side slit which we thought was very clever. Alexander McQueen, added bounce to the chest with this detail while Ellery used a play of ruffles on suitings.
Puffed and feminine princess-style sleeves in spring-summer colours were shown by Ryan Lo on pretty dresses. There were stunning statement sleeves seen on creations by Simone Rocha, Emilia Wickstead, Preen and Ashley Williams.

Cinched sleeves were seen in numerous looks with a touch of volume and puff but still very clean and professional. Seen on the Paris runway, were long elegantly gathered sleeves exceeding the wrist length paired with slim trousers by Giambattista Valli and matched with beautifully mermaid skirts by Ellery. The off shoulder look is still a huge rage and was seen combined with cinched sleeves at come down to the elbows in long beautiful shimmer dresses by Oscar de la Renta. There was gingham paired with gorgeous thigh high split skirts by David Koma with dramatic lengthy sleeves and Ryan Lo’s funky designs which reminded us of clown nightmares.
The off shoulder is definitely here to stay with looks seen by Proenza Schouler in asymmetric skirts and with long sleeves by Diane von Furstenberg. Off-the-shoulder voluminous sleeved cropped tops certainly caught our attention on the Blumarine runway in Milan.

Romantic florals are always a typical trend for spring-summer seen by Naeem Khan, Alice & Olivia and Rebecca Taylor. Velvet has also made a huge come back! We love that it makes garments look luxe, feminine and dressy. This trend was seen by Victoria Beckham with her warm weather beautiful cuts and Marc Jacobs with his blush sheened scrunched midis. Sies Marjan was another favourite of ours.
Silver is a huge trend for spring summer 2017 and was used in a unique lightweight fabric to create fluttering looks with accents and accessories.Sequins were seen everywhere! Rodarte, Blonds, Custo Barcelona, Alexander Wang and Dion Lee showed unique looks with an athleisure attitude.
There is something very flashy about 2017 and it has brought back the flair of the ’80s with absolute gusto. The Parisian designers seem particularly enamoured of this decade. Ruching, puffy sleeves, single-shoulder dresses, body-tight pants and lots of embellishments along with sequins and colours made everyone from Louis Vuitton to Chanel to Kenzo and Emanuel Ungaro feel like they belonged in an ’80s movie remake.
Add in some hot pink and purple, which are the top spring-summer trends and the ’80s glamour is ushered back into your stark life.
The ’80s fashion is back but with a whole new wave style. This was seen by Topshop Unique, which showed outerwear with a unique wave in cut and pattern. Similar looks were also showcased by Vivienne Westwood, Peter Pilotto, Paul Smith and Simone Rocha.

Functional, maximal and utilitarianism is back for spring/summer 2017. Khaki cargos with numerous functional flap pockets, bungee cords, drawstrings and hoodies are very much in vogue. This was brought back into trend by Balmain, Margiela, Stella McCartney, Kenzo and Vetements.
We love how each has reworked the ’80s concept to fit their own style and the tastes of their customers. The generally effortless fits are certainly something fashion lovers and the regular folk alike are heavily into, from the khaki to the fatigue silhouettes.
Cargos are the most convenient trend right now. Also seen were cargos in silky sheened looks by Sies Marjan and transparent looks by DKNY. With the reintroduction of cargos comes a military type fashion trend. Military meets chic feminism is a new look blending the masculine and feminine. Dsquared2 showcased military jacket looks that combined Gothic and girlish styles.
Epaulets, gold buttons and passementerie is back. We love this trend seen on the ramp by Roberto Cavalli, Versace, Mulberry and J.W. Anderson.
Besides the major design trends, sexy side slits, overdose cutouts, statement accessories, bright bold colours, loose fits, deconstructed shirting, square shoulders, plunging necklines, sweat shirts, pants on pants, play on panelling, bold designer logos, slogan tees, crochet, shirt dresses, bohemian styles, denim and asymmetry are popular trends this season.

Sexy side slits, and over dose cut outs, statement accessories, bright bold colours, loose fits, deconstructed shirting, square shoulders, plunging necklines, sweat shirts, pants on pants, play on panelling, bold designer logos, slogan tees, crochet, shirt dresses, bohemian styles, denim and asymmetry are popular trends this season

There has been an interesting use of new Pantone shades on the runway. The shades we love are Niagara, a soft blue hue, like a gentle denim wash which can be matched with anything. This is seen by Altuzarra, Carolina Herrera and Zac Posen.
Primrose Yellow, a buttery, sunny yellow was seen all over the runways and is versatile enough to be worn in both the cooler and warmer weathers. This one reminds us of nature and goodness, of delightful days and interesting nights. Lapis Blue, similar to the colour of the stone lapis lazuli is a vibrant, slimming colour which added richness to the runway. Flame is a vibrant, dramatic orange used popularly by Tory Burch, Rag & Bone, Gabriela Hearst and Lela Rose. Island Paradise is a tropical, refreshingly cool blue used by Victoria Beckham, and Christian Siriano. This is the perfect colour for the beach or for a picnic in the park.
Pale Dogwood is a pale rose pink colour, which is a muted rose quartz and specifically worn with browns and richer colours. This can be seen in collections by Banana Republic. Vibrant green was the preferred colour by Zac Posen, Trina Turk and Michael Kors. It’s a beautiful outdoor colour that reminds us of avocados, wild plants and healthy lifestyle. Kale is a duller nature green used by DKNY.
Pink Yarrow is essentially what we call rani pink in India. It’s the colour of a beet and was used on the runway by Roberto Cavalli and Nanette Lepore. Lastly Hazelnut, a darker, neutral hue was made popular by Baja East in oversized fringed sweater looks this season.


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